dehors d’oeuvres

chateau_lacosteRencontrer des œuvres d’art à l’extérieur occasionne  une réjouissante dissonance entre artefact et nature comme si lesdites œuvres avaient fui leurs asiles, déjouant la vigilance des gardiens de musées et retrouvaient leur liberté première. Celles et ceux qui auront  par exemple flâné dans le parc des Fondations Maeght à St Paul de Vence, Miro à Barcelone ou pérégriné dans les jardins de Lusiana (musée d’art moderne  de Copenhague), du LAM à Lille voire à Kerguéhennec dans le Morbihan connaissent cette joie infantile de l’art (à) découvert, rythmée par  cette pulsion qui sous tend la chasse aux œufs ou le jeu de piste.

Lorsque la culture s’enracine  dans l’art de cultiver la Terre, elle manifeste la possibilité d’élever l’Humanité comme l’agriculture nous a transformés en communautés édificatrices, il y a 25 000 ans de cela.

Tandis que l’agriculture vise l’accumulation, l’art, placé sous le signe de la dépense nécessaire, dionysiaque par essence,  a parti lié avec le vin.  Dans le Rioja, Frank Ghéry a dessiné un chai (d’œuvre). Cet été encore, des viticulteurs bordelais ont convié des artistes à enivrer leurs vignes…

Mais le comble, heureuse collusion entre art contemporain et terre dédiée à la création (une nouvelle définition du vignoble ?)  le comble de la démesure pourtant toute tendue vers la sophistication, est atteint au château La Coste à  proximité de la Roque d’Anthéron.

Le bâtiment central couvre un parking dont la sortie piétonne à elle seule crée l’événement : votre corps émerge d’une eau miroitant, outre un ciel azuréen,  l’antonyme de Narcisse, une araignée dont la maman s’appelle Louise Bourgeois ! Ce bâtiment abrite aussi l’accueil et le restaurant, pensé par  Tadao Ando pour aiguill(onn)er votre visite.  Et vous voici parti pour une heure trente de dilection à travers les vignes et les pinèdes. On y rencontre Richard Serra, mal à propos, lacérant la terre de ses lames de fer avec moins de grâce et de malignité que ne l’eut fait même une charrue géante, Andy Goldsworthy qui vous « nidifie » dans une cavité tapissé de chêne lequel vous tonifie et vous abreuve de sérénité à la fois. Plus tard, Guggi vous installe un immense calice, enivrant réceptacle de futures libations, après que vous avez médité aux sons inextinguibles des cloches de Paul Matisse et manqué la révélation que  Tadao Ando, encore lui, s’efforce de vous aménager,  une révélation relevant du « fiat lux » de la genèse qui ce jour là ne vient pas tant le ciel, gorgé d’eau, reste avare de lumière.

Une promenade inégale, dont les mauvais esprits pointeront l’ambition marketing visant à surpondérer le prix de vente des millésimes ou l’opportunité d’offrir un terrain de jeu défiscalisé pour ultra riche… La frivolité est profondément civilisatrice. Ce jour là, on s’est bien amusé.

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